Busan is Good

Within a few short hours KTX had effected its magic, spiriting us from our Jeonju respite onto Busan, the second largest Korean city. Though several orders of magnitude smaller than Seoul, Busan is still home to some 5 or so million spread along the undulating coast at the southeastern extreme of the peninsula. It feels… Read More Busan is Good

Bballi Bballi

Seoul spreads on and on, squeezing through valley floors and climbing over craggy hills before reaching the shores of the Yellow Sea. Even here, fresh soils have been crafted for the relentless conurbation, playing host to new towns and Incheon Airport. All this is apparent from above, circling the megacity before touching down, a sense… Read More Bballi Bballi

A Fistful of Yen

We eased away from Naoshima to cities in a gradation of ferry, train, and shinkansen. By midday we were back underground, Osaka’s subway taking us into the heart of the metropolis. At first glance, Japan’s second city looks a lot like Tokyo: the same tower clusters, narrow lanes, elevated highways, and fine-grain concrete urbanism filling… Read More A Fistful of Yen