My last morning in Puebla was a flurry of visiting museums, walking around the colonial centre of the town. It struck me that there is a lot to see in the city; I’d nearly completely neglected the city’s attractions in favour of the surrounding ruins. In truth, the museums are good but not great here. Again, the best part of Mexico’s cities has been the vibrancy of the open spaces and the people using them. Let’s not forget the non-stop music at seemingly all times of day. I think folks here just learn to tune it out.

 

The day began with great promise, a beautiful early morning followed by the happy news that there is indeed a bus to the Grutas de Cacahuamilpa, a cave that extends several kilometres into the earth in the midst of a national park here. The ride up there got even better when the driver put on Mexican oldies for us to rock out to. My personal favourite was an adaptation of “Hang On Sloopy” that became “Oye Lupe”. Fantastic. Between that and the scenery, it made for a wonderful start to the day, never mind skipping breakfast to make the early bus.

 

The grutas are seemingly a popular tourist site, evidenced by the early morning bustle even at 10am of vendors setting up shop, who thankfully made a torta for me in the time I had before the tour. Yes, a tour. We were required to go on an hourly tour into the cave. The cave was worth it…simply spectacular. The guide explained in Spanish as we went to our tour group the various shapes of stalactites and stalagmites and how they look like certain things. I would have preferred a more scientific bent or information on whether the site had any cultural uses for ancient peoples. That said, it was nice to simply enjoy the various caverns and see the shapes.

 

At the end of the cave (at least the part we’re allowed to see) the guide turned us lose to make our way back to the mouth on our own. This meant a half-hour walk back with nothing but the guide lights illuminating the way. I was able to distance myself from the pack and find myself in the midst of a nearly empty dark cave, obscure shapes rising around me in the darkness with no real beginning or end. It was one of those rare moments that reminds a person how small and helpless we can be in the world, a time where I truly am overwhelmed and happy to be alive. I don’t know that we can experience those moments in the company of others, in the midst of the cities and places we build. There is something magical to finding it in the empty recesses of the earth.

 

The ride back was simple, caught the first bus after getting a coconut for hydration. It’s funny to me how doing all the trips the past few years on my own have changed things. There is this reserve of memories, of places like what I saw today, that are mine alone. I think there’s a great value in solitude, in the time I spend in my head on trips like this (for better or worse!). Too often it seems that we shy away from feeling small, we always want to feel connected, to say that we are here, were here, that we mattered. The ruins that I’ve seen in the past week, along with all the modern graffiti, seems to underscore all of that.

 

In the future, I think it may be time to find people to travel with again. There are tradeoffs, like anything. Compromises one must make, itineraries adjusted. It’s a rare person who would spend their day on buses going to and from ruins all the time. That said, it is a nice thing to share the experiences, share the meals, share the costs too! Maybe the next time out.

 

The second half of the day was a trip to the nearby town of Tepoztlan, a small place surrounded on all sides by sharply rising hills. On the top of one of the hills is a small pyramid, a site that was conquered by the Aztecs. The hike was promised to be steep and it was no lie. The steps going straight up reminded me of hiking in China, but with far fewer people. At the top the real reward was a stunning view of the town below and the surrounding hillside. It felt good to get out of cities and be outdoors a bit. Back in town, I was able to catch a ride back to Cuernavaca with the help of a friendly traffic officer, who patiently answered my question. One more day to go!