After the bustle of Istanbul and Cappadocia, we had planned on a quieter and easier few days in Paris to round out our trip, images of delightful cafes, fluffy pastries and croissants, and flowing wine entertaining our thoughts. We perhaps took the French capital too lightly, finding ourselves figuratively punched in the mouth by our lack of planning, such as when we showed up to catacombs to find a winding line which had managed to fully encircle the block. Licking our wounds, we retreated back to our apartment and came up with a more concerted plan. A short Velib ride later, I had arrived at Gare du Nord, the entire time practicing a simple French request in my head for two museum passes. I was successful this time, and the next few days were much smoother for it.

Museum pass in hand, we were able to forgo the lines at the major attractions (looking at you, Louvre…) and face at least diminished crowds as we fought our way to the various sights. One of the highlights was the l’Orangerie, a museum at the opposite end of the Tuileries from the Louvre. The small space is dedicated on one level to Monet’s waterlilies, displaying a number of these on long, curved walls. The lower level of the museum features rooms dedicated to other 19th century artists, each casting light with focused didactics on the artist in each room. It was a nice counterpoint to the full onslaught of the Louvre.

As ever, I made a point to see a number of city planning-related sites around the city. Hannah and I walked the length of the Canal Saint-Martin, wondering to ourselves why is it that Parisians are allowed open alcohol containers outside while in British Columbia we still labour under Victorian era restrictions. One jaunt that I did by myself was to see the Musee des Egouts (Sewer Museum). Though it is situated between the Eiffel Tower and Musee d’Orsay, it is very undertouristed and makes for an interesting little walk through the literal underbelly of Paris. At least to me.

Back above ground, I indulged in a late afternoon walk along La Promenade Plantee in the eastern section of the city. The promenade is a High Line precursor, a former rail line turned trail that winds its way through tunnels and elevated viaducts, providing unique views and a different level of experience to the city. Another more unique site we visited was the Museum of Hunting and Nature, a bizarre world of taxidermy and art exhibitions juxtaposed with one another near Le Marais, all housed in a classic Parisian building. I can safely say it was one of the more memorable museums I’ve had the chance to visit.

While I’d had success employing a bit of francais with the museum pass, my other major effort was met with less success. Enquiring at a newsstand about purchasing a ticket book for the metro, I was told that I could purchase them elsewhere. The proprietor offered up a series of directions and I thanked him. After a fruitless loop through the streets, I was forced to admit that while I was able to pose the question successfully, my comprehension of the instructions were limited to ‘that direction’. Better luck next time, I hope.